16' x 40' Tiny Home

Design & Materials Package

640 sq ft — single story — 1 bedroom

We can build you the coolest Custom Tiny Home with your colors, Kitchen & Bathroom. Its your home so have it your way.

1. Floor plan

Front entry into the living room; a second exterior door is recommended off the utility area (rear or side) for a secondary egress and to meet code (bedrooms with no direct exterior door need an egress window — see Section 8).

$89,000-$150,000

We will price the home before we build

ZONE Dimensions Area

Living room 12'x16' 192 SF

Kitchen 8'x16' 128SF

Bathroom 6'x9' 54SF

Utility / laundry / hall 6'7' 42SF

Bedroom (incl. closet) 14'x16' 224SF

Total 640 SF

2. Foundation / floor framing

● Chassis: steel I-beam main rails (2 or 3 beams running the 40' length) per manufactured-housing convention, with wood floor framing on top. If site-built instead, use a pier-and-beam or slab foundation sized by your engineer for local frost depth and soil bearing.

● Floor joists: 2x8 (or 2x10 for extra duct/plumbing chase depth), 16" o.c., spanning the 16' width — approximately 31 joists at 16' long = ~496 linear ft

● Rim/band joists: 2x8, perimeter = 112 lf

● Subfloor: 3/4" tongue-and-groove OSB or plywood, glued and screwed — 640 sf ÷ 32 sf/sheet = 20 sheets, +10% waste = 22 sheets

● Underbelly insulation: R-19 to R-25 batt or closed-cell spray foam under the floor, wrapped and sealed against the elements (critical for a home sitting on an open chassis)

● Underbelly board/vapor barrier: coroplast or equivalent, 640 sf plus wrap allowance

3. Wall framing

Exterior walls

2x6, 16" o.c., 8' plate height (2x6 gives a deeper cavity for insulation — worth it in a small footprint where every R-value matters).

● Perimeter = 2 x (16 + 40) = 112 linear ft

● Studs: ~130–150 pieces of 2x6x8' (accounts for corners, window/door trimmers, and cripples — the line item most affected by final window/door count, treat as ROM)

● Plates: bottom (single) + top (doubled) = 3 x 112 lf = 336 lf of 2x6

Interior partition walls

Bathroom, bedroom, closet, hallway: 2x4, 16" o.c.

● Approx. 48 lf of partition wall = ~45 studs of 2x4x8'

● Plates: 3 x 48 lf = 144 lf of 2x4

Headers

Size per opening per your engineer/span tables — budget 2x8 or 2x10 doubled headers for all windows and doors, roughly 8–10 openings.

4. Roof design

Recommended pitch: 6:12. For a 16'-wide single-story home this is the sweet spot — steep enough to shed rain/snow well, use standard roofing materials without special detailing, and read as a “real house” rather than a shed, while still being buildable with common roof trusses.

● 3:12–4:12 — lower profile, more modern/minimalist look, less wind resistance (relevant if the site is windy), still fine for shingles or metal

● 6:12 — traditional residential look, good water/snow shedding — recommended default

● 8:12+ — if you want a loft or usable attic storage above the 8' walls; adds material cost and height (watch total transport height if this unit will be moved as a wide load)

Roof structure (at 6:12 pitch)

● Trusses: prefabricated gable trusses, 16' span, spaced 24" o.c. — approximately 21 trusses, plus 2 gable-end trusses

● Roof sheathing: 7/16" OSB — roof area at 6:12 pitch over a 16' span with 1' overhangs ≈ 836 sf → 26 sheets +10% waste = ~29 sheets

● Underlayment: synthetic roofing felt, 1 roll (covers ~1,000 sf)

● Roof covering: architectural asphalt shingles (9 squares / 27 bundles) or standing seam metal panels (~850–900 sf plus trim/flashing — better choice if the unit may ever be transported, since metal handles road vibration better than shingles)

● Fascia/soffit: ~120 lf of fascia board (1x8), plus vented soffit material for the same run

● Ridge vent: 40 lf

5. Exterior sheathing, wrap, and siding

● Wall sheathing: 7/16" OSB, 112 lf x 8' = 896 sf ÷ 32 = 28 sheets, +waste = ~30 sheets

● House wrap: 1 roll (9' x 150' = 1,350 sf) covers the full 896 sf wall area with margin

● Siding: budget ~800 sf to allow for window/door cutouts and waste — fiber cement lap siding (durable, low maintenance), board-and-batten (classic tiny-home look), or metal panel siding (best durability if relocated)

6. Insulation & drywall

Assembly

Floor 640 SF

Walls (2x6 Cavity) -750 SF Net

Roofing

~750 sf net

Assembly

Area

Recommended R-value

Floor

640 sf

R-19–R-25

Walls (2x6 cavity)

~750 sf net

R-19–R-21 batt (or R-21+ spray foam)

Roof/ceiling

640 sf

R-38–R-49

Drywall: 1/2" throughout — walls (~750 sf net) + both sides of interior partitions (~768 sf) + ceiling (640 sf) ≈ 2,158 sf ÷ 32 sf/sheet = 68 sheets, +10% waste = ~75 sheets. Use moisture-resistant (“green board”) drywall or cement board in the bathroom wet zones.

7. Windows & doors

● Exterior doors: 2 (front entry off living room, secondary door off utility/rear — improves flow and gives code-required egress options)

● Interior doors: 3–4 (bedroom, bathroom, closet, and a laundry closet door if enclosed)

● Windows: budget 6–8 total — living room (2, or 1 larger picture window), kitchen (1 above the sink), bedroom (1–2, at least one must meet egress size/sill-height requirements since this is the sole bedroom), bathroom (1, or a skylight/solar tube to avoid a window in the shower wall)

8. Kitchen design

Galley-style, 8' x 16' zone, cabinets run along the back wall so the living area stays open.

● Cabinet run: ~12–14 linear ft of base + upper cabinets (standard 24" deep base, 12" deep upper)

● Countertop: ~25–30 sf — laminate (budget), butcher block (warm, tiny-home-standard look), or quartz (durable, higher cost)

● Appliances: 24" or 30" range (gas or electric), apartment-size or standard fridge, single-bowl sink under a window, optional 18" dishwasher and over-range microwave/hood

● Layout tip: put the range and sink on the same wall run with the fridge at one end so the whole kitchen works as one efficient line — there isn't room for a full work triangle in an 8'-deep zone, and this layout doesn't need one.

9. Bathroom design

6' x 9' zone (54 sf), 3-piece:

● Toilet

● Vanity/sink (24"–30" wide) — consider a corner or wall-hung unit to maximize floor space

● Shower or tub/shower combo — a 32"x60" or 36"x36" shower stall fits comfortably and frees up floor space versus a full tub

● Ventilation: exhaust fan vented to the exterior is non-negotiable in a tight building envelope like this

● Utility zone (6'x7', adjacent): stacked washer/dryer closet plus linen storage, doubles as the hallway to the bedroom

10. Plumbing

● Fixtures: kitchen sink, bathroom sink, toilet, shower, washing machine hookup, water heater

● Water heater: tankless (space-saving, good fit here) or compact 20–30 gal tank

● Supply lines: PEX, ~150–200 lf

● Drain/waste/vent (DWV): PVC, ~100–150 lf, with a single stack if the kitchen/bath/utility plumbing walls back up to each other — this floor plan already clusters them well

11. Electrical

● Service panel: 100A minimum; 125–150A if running an electric range, electric water heater, and a mini-split off the same panel

● Circuits: ~15–20 branch circuits — general lighting, 2x kitchen small-appliance (code requires two), bathroom GFCI, bedroom, washer/dryer (240V if electric dryer), water heater (if electric), range, mini-split

● Wire: NM-B (Romex), estimate ~600–800 lf total across all circuits

● Devices: ~25–30 outlets/switches/fixtures

12. HVAC

A ductless mini-split is the standard choice for a footprint this size — no ductwork to fit into a tiny wall/floor cavity, and it heats and cools.

Sizing: rule of thumb ~20 BTU/sf → 640 sf x 20 = 12,800 BTU. A single 12,000–18,000 BTU single-zone unit covers the whole home; consider a 2-zone system (living area + bedroom) for independent temperature control.

13. Materials summary (quick reference)